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How to Surf

Essay by review  •  February 24, 2011  •  Essay  •  803 Words (4 Pages)  •  783 Views

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How to Surf

Surf by definition means the swell of the sea that breaks upon the shore. Surfing is a sport and recreational activity which a person stands on a board and glides across the waves so swiftly and smoothly that it can be seen as a piece of art. Surfing is not for all people; it takes patience, determination, and practice. Some learn by watching, others learn by doing..

Before going out to surf, purchase or borrow a board. The market for boards is full of different types, the best bet is to go to a surf shop and tell them the situation. There are many different types of boards. The short board, long board, fun board, fish board, or the gun board. There are many factors to contribute in the decision process for purchasing a surfboard. Some of these factors are what types of waves one would intend to ride, weight, and also experience. The easiest board to learn on is the long board. You also need a leash. It will most likely already be on your board; this is important because it is very easy to lose a board while out in the ocean and it can endanger the other surfers if a board is out of control.

After the board is decided on one must find a location. It doesn't matter where one surfs, if you are a beginner I would not suggest going to the top spots with the best waves; a simple beach with swells will do. Sit there awhile and watch the other surfer's study where they are swimming; the big swells break farther out so, you may notice that there is a herd of people sitting out past the breaks. Before diving into the water make sure the leash gets attached to the ankle closest to the end of the board. The leash can be placed on the right foot which would make the surfer regular-footed, but if the surfer attaches the leash to their left foot the surfer is goofy-footed. Pick up the board and hold it on the same side as the leash. Carry it into the water. When you get about waist deep put the board down and jump on its time to paddle out.

The board is flat against the ocean surface, all but the nose, which should rise two or three inches above the water. Take even strokes from arm to arm; the chest must not touch the board; right arm then left arm stroke after stroke. When approached by a breaking wave, a decision must be made: plow right through it, duck dive under it and let the wave pass by, or lastly abandon the board, jump off and dive deep. The board will fly, but when the wave passes, get right back on because the



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